At the end of his Style.com review of the Hermès AW14 show, fashion writer Tim Blanks notes that with designer Christophe Lemaire working on womenswear, “the company now puts forth an idiosyncratic but completely convincing statement about luxury dressing in the twenty-first century.”
I’d even go a step further than that. In 20 years time, I think we’ll look back and see in this collection the start of a true 21st century style. Here are some of the hallmarks: an awkward, conventionally unattractive silhouette (loose, baggy trousers and mid-calf skirts); a muted colour palette (teal and rust are as lively as it gets, and oatmeal, camel and charcoal are more likely); layers (a smock over culottes, say, or a gilet belted over a blouse that’s left untucked over a skirt); a hint of nature (alligator and fur are favourites).
Lemaire isn’t the only one doing it. Brands as disparate as The Row and Lanvin; Chloe and Rick Owens; Marni and Derek Lam have all incorporated elements of this style into their collections.
It’s intelligent, chic and a little wild. And yes, it’s a very, very convincing statement.
What do you think of the Hermès collection? Price-tags aside, could you see this style in your own wardrobe?
All photos from Vogue.com
One of the first profile pieces I ever read on Carine Roitfled (this was back in 2001 and yes, I still have the clipping) casually mentioned that she once turned up to style a Gucci shoot with Tom Ford and Mario Testino wearing “’60s pointed-toe slingbacks with the straps pushed down”.
Seriously, could there be anything cooler than that? (Tom Ford evidently didn’t think so: three years later, a very similar style stormed the Gucci runways.)
Ever since then, the idea of a pointed-toe flat with a slingback has really appealed to me. And while the mule may be the Shoe of the Season, I’m tipping the pointy sling to be the Next Big Thing. Both styles were last seen circa the late 1990s/early 2000s and both read “ladylike” in a slightly off-kilter way that can add a fashion edge to almost any outfit.
Plus, Mrs Prada has quietly added the style to her current collections for both Miu Miu and Prada, a sure sign if ever there was one. Pushed-down straps are entirely optional.
Shop it: The leopard-print style above and below are from J.Crew here;
the silver pair are Miu Miu here; and the black Prada pair can be found here.
Is it just me, or does it sometimes seem like fashion takes itself a little bit too seriously? After all, we’re only talking about clothes!
I’m normally happy enough to go along with it, but I do have a secret fetish for bad taste that occasionally rears its head… or skull, as the case was today! Spending the day at home writing seemed like a good enough excuse to break out this vintage metal T-shirt (not a reflection of my musical taste, I hasten to add), plus a brand new pair of Alexander Wang leather shorts.
When these guys arrived I didn’t quite envisage wearing them like this, but I like it. Rock & roll forever!
In theory, white jeans + leopard shirt + gold sandals should read “Palazzo Versace on the Gold Coast” (international readers, I’m sure you can think of a similar local reference). But somehow, it all feels right this season.
The first sign of cool weather and I couldn’t wait to get into these Current/Elliott jeans, test-driving them with leopard and grey, which is pretty much how I plan to wear them right throughout the coming winter…
I’m wearing Isabel Marant blazer; Current/Elliot jeans; K.Jacques sandals; Givenchy handbag.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua has completely nailed the boy-meets-girl vibe at No.21 this season, with the best looks teaming shimmering sequins with utilitarian camel, grey or brown wool.
Equally bewitching: the marvelous accessories, such as tinsel-covered pointed flats and oversized cow-hide clutches.
According to WWD, Dell’Acqua dubbed the collection “real life with a touch of magic”. And couldn’t we all do with a little magic in our every day?
Images from Vogue.com
Neatly tucked and belted, I upped the ante on my usual working-from-home look today…
I’m wearing Zara T-shirt (another discovery in the men’s department!); Scanlan & Theodore pencil skirt; Marni belt.
Get the basics right and everything falls into place. I’m slowly working through my list of autumn essentials and today found the previously elusive pair of white jeans with magical leg-lengthening properties. Take a bow, Current/Elliott for The Stiletto cropped style.
I also picked up a few lightweight knits to wear alone in a few weeks and layered in a few months. These days, I bypass Zara’s womenswear and head straight for the men’s department, where I found this grey leopard print sweater (to be worn with the aforementioned white skinnies). And at Bassike, I satisfied my craving for a wool jersey turtleneck, which I’ll be wearing with extra-dark indigo jeans.
When you live in the city you have to take your greenery where you can find it: a tropical fern-printed jacket; a pair of delicious beauty treats…
Emerald green may have been Pantone-decreed the colour of last year but it and its verdant friends have been growing like ivy lately. One of my preferred ways to wear it: this jacket, which is actually a couple of years old. Its statement print forced me to put it on ice for a while, but I’m happily bringing it out of semi-retirement this season.
And two of my all-time favourite body products – Aesop’s Geranium Leaf Body Scrub and Maison Martin Margiela’s fragrance, [Untitled] – are not only green in colour but actually smell like the shade itself. Fresh, leafy and with a hint of sweetness, they’re perfect for the urban jungle.
I’m wearing Country Road bomber jacket and tank; Filippa K skirt; French Sole ballet flats.
What goes up must come down… Just as surely as all those pumped-up pairs of Nike and New Balance have flooded our collective unconscious for the past couple of seasons (mine included), so too is an antidote already lurking.
One of the notable qualities of the street style at New York Fashion Week this season was the prevalence of “sensible” shoes – all the better for picking one’s way across the black ice, you see. And among them, I spotted more than a few pairs of old-school Converse Chuck Taylors (below) and Adidas Stan Smith (bottom) shoes.
And because they’re pretty quick in New York, the trend has already hit the runway, at the M.Patmos show (above), where Converse-like shoes were worn with cropped trousers or knee-length dresses.
Of course I still love all those high-tech patterned and perforated sports shoes but my low-cut white Chucks have been patiently waiting for me all this time. I’ll be wearing them with skinny black jeans and leather leggings. It’s not for me personally, but I also like the look of Stan Smiths worn with a pair of loose, mannish wool trousers in grey, white or pale pink, where the rounded shell toe seems to balance out the folds of fabric.
Are you a Chuck Taylor or a Stan Taylor kind of girl?
Photos: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4
Is it too early to call a trend for next winter? Possibly, but I’m going to do it anyway! Both Michael Kors (above) and J. Crew (below) suggested a wintery take on that very summery print: ombré.
And as if to underscore their point, they fashioned it into the most deliciously snuggly cableknit sweaters, to be worn with a fringed skirt (Kors) or striped trousers (J.Crew).
Sure, it’s not exactly groundbreaking but for those in the northern hemisphere, it could be just the fresh approach to knitwear that’s needed to get through a long, dark winter. Plus, it hints at warmer days ahead.
Photos from Style.com